The first thing you notice about Plovdiv, Bulgaria’s 2019 European Capital of Culture, are the so-called cobblestones. These are no genteel cobblestones; the downtown streets are paved with small, rounded boulders that severely test the equilibrium of out-of-town ankles. Plovdiv’s cobblestones, and the resulting sprains, are legendary. So is the agility of Plovdiv women, a […]